Saturday, August 20, 2011

Completing the build.

Since my wife does not care for the G&G style I left some of those design elements out.  To avoid the large number of Ebony Plugs in the back and seat slats Pocket Screw holes were drilled in the side legs, upper and lower back braces, and front rail.
All parts were dyed with Darrell Peart's formula using General Finishes water based dyes.  The chair was assembled and finished with Penofin Hardwoood Oil finish.

The next project is a work bench.  Should start in a few days.

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Arm, Upper back support, and brackets.

In the last six years I don't think I've used a dado stack more than once or twice.  So when I bought the Saw Stop I decided not to buy the dado cartridge.  So for the half lap joints on the upper back brace and arms I used the router table and miter gauge with a 1/2" bit.  It took quite a number of passes but worked very well.

I used the Festool MFS to make the mortice in the leg for the arm.

After squaring the mortice corners and some light work on the tenon the fit was very good.

Rather than make the brackets in two parts and connect them with a dowel I made a single piece pattern, transferred the shape to the stock and created a single piece bracket using a scroll saw. the pattern is on the left and partially cut bracket on right.

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Lower back brace

I've been working mostly on another project the had to be completed yesterday so I'm behind on this build again.  I just finished the lower back brace today.

Not much chance of getting caught up with Mark till well into next week.

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Side Leg & Front Apron

After milling the side leg stock to size I cut the 17 degree angle on the tenon end.
Then the tenon was cut with the Leigh Jig.
I also cut the back brace mortice with the Leigh jig. It is not really designed to hold the work piece in this orientation but a couple of expanding clamp accomplished it.  I was concerned that it may not be adequate clamping but it did work.
The curves and cloud lift were done in the same way as Mark describes in the video.

The tenons in the front apron were made with the Leigh jig. I used the Festool MSF to make the slots.
I was not sure about getting on the ramps correct just chiseling as Mark did, so I made a guide ramp that could be clamped to the apron. I set it close to the router cut hole to start and then moved it back slightly as I worked.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Making the detail at the bottom of the leg

Rather than make the jig that Mark used I had a Festool MFS ( ) and thought it would work as well.  (For more on use of the MFS see Brice Burrell's site ) The MFS creates an adjustable opening for using a router with a guide bushing.  First it was necessary a reference line down the center of leg. I used a Bridge City Toolworks Center Scribe for this. 

The MFS has a scale that that makes setting the opening easy.  Adjusting for the Guide mushing I needed a 40mm wide opening.

I marked the center of this opening which I could line up with the previously scribed center line. The length of the opening is longer than the actual routed distance so the the bit would come well off the wood at the end of the pass.  One end was placed a guide bushing distance below the bottom of the detail. A wood wedge was placed under the other end to raise it the appropriate amount.
 The router was then run on this 'ramp.'  I used a 1/2" spiral up cut bit.
I used a oscillating belt sander for the round over below the detail.

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Adirondack Chair with a Greene & Greene influence

For those that may stumble on this blog and not be familiar with Adirondack Chairs they are generally something like this.
The Wood Whisperer Guild build one has added some G&G elements.

The front legs each have two mortices, one for the side legs and one for the front apron.  I cut these using  the Leigh FMT ( )
The top of these legs have short square tenon, a quarter inch on a side smaller than the leg, that will fit in the bottom of the arm.  These were were made on the router table.
Next will be creating a G&G detail at the bottom of these legs.